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    Chimseon Korean Traditional Sewing

    • Park Ga-young, Kim Yeo-kyung, Song Su-jin Àú
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    ISBN: 9788997252589 164ÂÊ 152 x 210 (§®)

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    Copious books and research material have been published on Chimseon, however, most of them targets professionals and are difficult to understand for the general public. Thus, Chimseon: Korean Traditional Sewing was conceived to make Chimseon easily understandable and readily available to anyone. While Chimseon usually refers to sewing only, in this book, its definition was expanded to encompass Chimseon as a process as well as the resulting product, Korean garments. Various visuals were included throughout the book to better convey the beauty of Korean Chimseon and to younger generations everywhere.
    <Chimseon: Korean Traditional Sewing> is organized into four chapters.
    The first chapter: ¡°Chimseon: An Introduction¡±, introduces the definition, characteristics, history, various types and the masters of , who have been succeeding Korean in its quintessential form in the royal household of the Joseon dynasty.
    The second chapter: ¡°Preparing Chimseon¡±, explores materials, tools, basic and decorative techniques necessary for. Following the basic processes provided in this chapter will make the skills available for the creation of various products to readers.
    The third chapter: ¡°Crafting Chimseon¡±, outlines the crafting of basic items, i.e. upper garment, skirt, pants, traditional vest, and patchwork wrapping cloths, a representative item of women¡¯s quarters. methods have evolved over time and vary slightly from master to master, thus the most commonly used methods are introduced here. Effort was made to provide a systematic guide of the process, to convey the order and process concisely, yet sufficiently.
    The fourth chapter: ¡°Enjoying Chimseon¡±, explores how our ancestors utilized in artifacts and introduces modern reinterpretations made to suit contemporary aesthetics by today¡¯s masters. Despite the difficulty to choose from among a myriad of artifacts and modern pieces, an attempt was made to provide a comprehensive selection, sufficient enough to introduce all of the diverse aspects of enjoyed through various time periods and social classes, genders and ages.
    We present this book with the hope of introducing Korean to foreign audiences and providing it with an opportunity to be appreciated and enjoyed by many more people.

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    It was only a century ago that sewing machines became available in Korea. Until then, everything from clothing to small items had to be hand-sewn.
    Chimseon, Korean traditional sewing, perfectly reflects the philosophy of life of Korean ancestors and the cultural identity, demonstrating stitch by stitch how elaborate work and the sense of aesthetics create a subtle beauty.
    Today, Korean traditional sewing has made a comeback. The has captivated Western audiences since the 1990s, when designers began to introduce the flowing garments to the runways of Paris. Reflecting growing global interest in the boosted by the rising popularity of various Korean cultural contents in recent years, Karl Lagerfeld has presented a Hanbok-inspired line of clothing at the 2015 Chanel Cruise Collection. Traditional has thus been plunked out of obscurity and is becoming a sought-after source of novel inspiration for fashion designers around the world. Consequently, and items that had previously been forgotten have resurfaced in our daily lives as their new interpretations garner positive responses from younger generations.
    This book was written to make Chimseon readily available to a wider audience. As the creative possibilities born from needle and thread are virtually endless. This book is a valuable guide for designers seeking inspiration in traditional Korean.

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    Chimseon(öÜàÊ) stands for needle and thread, referring to the sewing of fabric such as the stitching or making of clothing, and in broad terms includes all sewn objects.
    Besides clothing, bedding items such as blankets, pillows, sitting cushions, and various decorative storing items such as wraps, and cases for writing and eating utensils have also been made with Chimseon.
    Chimseon was an important virtue for women in the household. As the craftsmanship of items made in the women¡¯s quarters called Gyubang(бۮ) became increasingly acknowledged, the creations are now known as Gyubang Crafts.
    -from.¡® Chapter 1. Chimseon: An Introduction¡¯

     

    Jeogori
    The most basic upper garment of Hanbok, the open front is held together from both sides by Goreum, with no notable differences in shape between sexes and ages. Despite changes with trends over time, Jeogori worn by men are usually lengthy and plain. Meanwhile, Jeogori worn by women used to be lengthy and wide sleeved, but this became increasingly shorter and form fitting. Jeogori is usually decorated with either gilt or embroidery, and children¡¯s Jeogori were also beautifully adorned with multi-colored stripes or embroidery. Jeogori with different colored stripes attached to the sleeves are Saekdong-jeogori.
    There are unadorned uni-colored Jeogori(Min-jeogori), Jeogori with different colored cuffs, neckband and Goreum(Banhoejang-jeogori), and Jeogori with different colored cuffs, neckband, armpits and Goreum(Samhoejang-jeogori).
    -from.¡® Chapter 1. Chimseon: An Introduction¡¯

     

    Various types of fabric were used to make clothing fit for each of the distinct seasons in Korea. As such, spring and fall is made from thin silk fabric, summer from ramie or hemp, winter are made of cotton or thick silk. Leather, fur, felt or wool were also great for the alternative materials.
    For summer , hemp or ramie cloth was sewn in a single layer, and for spring and fall, lining was inserted to make multiple layers. Winter was quilted with cotton filling or lined with fur. Equivalent kind of fabric and sewing technique were used for the main fabric and lining.
    Nowadays, synthetic materials similar to natural fabrics are used to lower cost and ease maintenance, while the incorporation of Western fabric such as velvet and lace creates a novel impact.
    -from. 'Chapter 2. Preparing Chimseon'

     

    Chimseon tools were of utmost importance in the past when clothing had to be self-made. Traditional Chimseon tools include rulers, scissors, needles, thimbles, hot and flat irons, which were stored in sewing boxes, pools and needle cases. Needles were considered the most precious of Chimseon tools, and needles of appropriate thickness were used for various fabrics. Hot irons were heated in braziers and used to fold and press seams or smooth out creases, while frying pan-shaped flatirons filled with hot coal were rubbed over fabric held tight by two people. Starched cloth was pounded on a fulling block with a bat.
    -from. 'Chapter 2. Preparing Chimseon'

     

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    Chapter 1.

    Chimseon: An Introduction
    Definition of Chimseon 14
    Characteristics of Chimseon 16
    History of Chimseon 18
    Arts and Types of Chimseon 32

    Chapter 2.
    Preparing Chimseon
    Materials and Tools of Chimseon 44
    Chimseon Methods 52

    Chapter 3.

    Crafting Chimseon
    Jeogori 68
    Chima 74
    Baji 78
    Baeja 82
    Jogak-bo 86

    Chapter 4.

    Enjoying Chimseon
    Subtle Wit Glistening in Dignity ? Po 92
    Asymmetric Yet Well-balanced ? Jeogori 104
    Aesthetics of Curves and Slits ? Dang-ui 108
    As Practical As It Is Beautiful ? Baeja 114
    Graceful Appearance from the Back ? Ceremonial Chima 120
    Delicate Dualism of Hiding and Exposing ? Undergarments 126
    Square Artistry of Daily Life ? Jogak-bo 132
    Born from Women¡¯s Nimble Fingertips ? Sundries in Gyubang 138
    Creation of Motherly Devotion ? Children¡¯s Clothing 144

    Appendix

    Masters 154
    Craft & Design Map 155
    List of Artifacts and Illustrations 156
    Bibliography 160
    Collaborators 162
    Index 163

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